Appenzell canton is located in the North-east of Switzerland,
in the south of the Lake of Constance and on the north-western slopes of the
Alpstein massif. It is a rural and sparsely populated region; it is mainly
a meadowland dotted with small farms. Appenzell retains many ancient customs and
has been famous for centuries as a textile and embroidery centre. It
became a Swiss canton in 1513, and in 1597 it was split into two independent
half cantons.
Appenzell is both a canton and a town of 5,000 in Eastern Switzerland, less
than two hours from Zurich by train. The town, lies amid green hills with
just enough low-altitude alps to remind tourists that they're still in
Switzerland. It's most famous for its annual Landesgemeinde, an open-air
parliament where citizens vote directly on major issues instead of trusting
elected officials to make decisions for them. Only men were allowed to vote
until 1991, when the Swiss Supreme Court ruled that excluding women was
unconstitutional.
Appenzell's respect for tradition goes beyond electoral issues. On special
occasions, you'll see Appenzellers decked out in regional costume, as it has
long been one of Switzerland's most active centres for yodelling, alphorn
playing, and other expressions of Swiss musical tradition. The local houses are
distinctive, with painted facades and attached barns. And for tourists who fancy
primitive art there's no greater attraction and no better souvenir than a
traditional Appenzeller panoramic cow painting.
The town of Appenzell may seem a bit touristy at first glance, especially in
summer. Still, that's a small price to pay for the preservation of a town's
heritage and if you see a farmer walking barefoot with an earring dangling from
one ear, you can be sure that he isn't doing it to impress the rubes from the
city.
The best way to enjoy Appenzell is to simply stroll around the town, soaking
up the atmosphere and sampling the local honey cakes or pear bread (Birnenbrot)
when you get hungry.
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