The capital of the Beira Baixa region: Castelo Branco 250 km northeast of
Lisbon is a
relatively modern city surrounding a medieval quarter. The former Bishop's
Palace contains a lovely garden dotted with religious statues, orange trees and
manicured hedges.
Castelo Branco (white castle) rises on the slope of a hill that dominates a
plateau region; thus its historical function as a defensive fortress which is
confirmed by the castle, from where one can view a panorama that stretches until
the frontier and the slopes of Gardunha, overlooking the upper course of the
river Tagus.
The palace itself has been converted into a museum of
religious art and local artefacts. Of special note is its fantastic collection
of colchas (embroidered bedspreads) made by local women over the past
three centuries. The embroidery takes the shape of birds, fruits, trees and
flowers, each imbued with a bit of local symbolism -- two birds around a tree
represent lovers, for instance.
Castelo Branco has a flourishing local trade in cork, wine, olive
oil, and cheese.
Castelo Branco is also a good base for visiting Monsanto, an idyllic
walled city atop a mountain 40 km northeast. There's virtually nothing to
do in Monsanto, but tourists flock there in the summer anyway, drawn by the
stunning views of the surrounding country and Monsanto's atmospheric medieval
streets.
Covilha is the largest town in this area and it is known for its textiles,
woven from locally produced wool. From there you can drive to the Natural Park
of Serra da Estrela. In Summer walkers can enjoy the long distance walks,
varied flora and stunning views. The Winter snows attract skiers.
The most famous product of this zone is queijo da Serra, a rich flavoured
cheese still made by hand.
Around the 13th century castle lies a medieval quarter, with its Manueline
portals. In the old Episcopal Palace, is the Francisco Tavares Proenca Junior
Museum. Other old monuments are the Pacos do Concelho (16th-17th centuries),
Graca Convent (16th-18th centuries), Santo Antonio dos Capuchos Convent (16th
century), Misericordia Velha Church (16th-18th centuries).
Those who visit Castelo Branco may observe two distinct areas: the ancient
Medieval town, with its steep and narrow streets where many Manueline doorways
can still be admired, and a great modern zone, characteristic of a developing
city.
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